As I witnessed it for the first time as a young teenager, I remember thinking:" I wonder how it all started and why are they doing it?" If you travel in France and happen to visit the south, or the "Midi" as we call it, take the time to make a stop in Sète, a charming little port city 30 km west of Montpellier in Languedoc-Roussillon.
Like many French cities, Sète has a rich and ancient history. I won't do here a presentation about the long cultural journey and origin of this city, but rather tell you about one of the numerous original local customs you can stumble upon while visiting the different regions of France. From the middle of June to early September you can witness, on the main canal of Sète, the sport of "water jousting". These "Joutes de Sète" are pretty much part of the city life during the summer and culminate on the 25th of August for the "Joutes de la Saint Louis", this is the unofficial world championship of this original sport. Probably introduced by the ancient Greeks a few centuries BC, or even by the Egyptians before that, this activity is part of the identity not only of the town, but also all of the Mediterranean coastal cities, and was officially started as a competition in 1666 to mark the birth of the port of Sète.
People from Sète take these tournaments very seriously and the banks of the canal and the terraces of cafés and restaurants are packed with locals and tourists cheering for their champions. While sipping a local rosé, and enjoying the deliciously fresh seafood or the "tielle Sètoise" (spicy octopus pie) to the sound of local fanfares, it is a very fun and unique experience to witness and be part of this noisy, festive and truly original cultural event.
And most of all, it represents what I truly love about France: Each region, city, village has their own traditions, food, local history and dialects, making France an incredible mosaic of cultures and creating this very rich and ever surprising experience whenever you travel across the country. From Marseille to Brest, from Agen to Strasbourg, from Sète to Lille, a succession of historical, cultural, and culinary delights await, so, outside the mainstream touristic attractions for a true French experience, it is always necessary to take your time, do what the locals do, and enjoy the hidden regional treasures.
Nicolas Poisson, VLLC Tutor extraordinaire!
Nicolas Poisson, VLLC Tutor extraordinaire!
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